Halki

The little island of Halki (27km² extension and approximately 500 residents), a waterless limestone speck west of Rhodes, continues to count as a fully fledged member of the Dodecanese, even if its population haw dwindled from three thousand to barely three hundred n the century since its Italian rulers imposed restrictions on sponge-fishing.

While visitation has brought the island back to life, except at the height of summer Halki tends to be very quiet indeed. That said, in the middle of the day in high season, when day-trippers from Rhodes vastly outnumber locals in its broad quayside-cum-

square, Emborio can feel more like a stage set that a genuine town.

Emborio

With its photogenic ensemble of restored Italianate houses rising from the waterfront, Emborio, facing east towards Rhodes from the head of a large bay, is a sort of miniature version of Symi. Halki's port as well as the only inhabited town, its skyline is pierced by the tallest freestanding clock-tower in the Dodecanese, as well - a bit further north- as the belfry of Ayios Nikolaos, which holds a fine pebble mosaic courtyard. The waterfront has been paved with fieldstones, generally prettified and declared off-limits to vehicles in season.

Although there's no beach at Emborio, many visitors swim anyway, simply lowering themselves into the water from the quayside or shoreline rocks. Only two beaches lie within easy walking distance, both equipped with good seaside taverns. The island's only sandy beach, long narrow Pondamos, a 15-minute walk west over the hilltop, along the grandly named Tarpon Springs Boulevard, fills with day-trippers in summer. The best alternative, the tiny pebble cove and the gravel sunbed-lido at Ftenaya , lies a few minutes south of Emborio, along a well-signposted path that starts behind the Hiona Art Hotel.

Ftenaya

Horio and beyond

Still crowned by its Knight's castle, the old pirate-safe village of Horio, looming 3km west of Emborio, beyond Pondamos, was abandoned in the 1950s. Except during the August 14-15 festival, the church here is locked to protect its frescoes. Across the valley, little Stavros monastery hosts another big bash on September 14. There's little else inland, though Tarpon Springs Boulevard continues all the way across the island to reach the monastery of Ayiou Ioannou Prodromou (August 28-29 festival). The terrain en route is bleak, but compensated for by views over half the Dodecanese and Turkey. The monastery itself has a certain charm, with its central courtyard dominated by a huge juniper, and surrounded by an array of cells.

Trahia and Areta

Halki's remotest beaches can be reached either on boat excursions from Emborio quay - for example, aboard the Kiristani - or via demanding hiking trails.  Trahia, directly below Horio's castle, and served by a very rough path from Yiali, consists of two coves to either side of an isthmus.

On the north coast, Areta is an impressive place where seabirds roost and soar in the small pebble beach. Experienced hillwalkers can get here in around 1hr.

Areta

Transportation

By ferry: Halki's port, Emborio, is connected with the following ports: Anafi(2 weekly, 8 hr), Crete(2 weekly, Sitia 4hr, Iraklion 7hr), Karpathos(2 weekly, 2hr 30min), Kassos(2 weekly, 5hr), Kos(2 weekly, 2hr 45min), Nissyros(2 weekly, 1hr 40min), Pireas(2 weekly, 20hr), Rhodes Kamiros Skala(daily except Sunday, 1hr), Rhodes Town(4 weekly, 1hr 30min), Santorini(2 weekly, 11hr), Symi(2 weekly, 2hr), Tilos(2 weekly, 35min)

Getting Around

By bus: A sixteen-seat bus shuttles between the waterfront, Pondamos and Ftenaya.

Halki

Useful Phone Numbers

Municipality of Halki: 22460 45207

Police Station: 22460 45123

Port Authorities: 22460 45220

Medical Center: 22460 45206

Photos by:
yperion.wordpress.com