Tilos

Map of Tilos

Tilos (61km²  extension and 780 population) shares the characteristics of its closest neighbours: limestone mountains like those of Halki, plus volcanic lowlands, pumice beds and red-lava sand as on Nissyros. With ample groundwater and rich volcanic soil, the islanders could afford to turn their backs on the sea, and made Tilos the breadbasket of the Dodecanese. Until the 1970s, travellers were greeted by the sight of shimmering  fields of grain bowing in the wind. Nowadays the hillside terraces languish abandoned, and the population of five hundred dwindles to barely a hundred in winter.

While recent development has turned the port of Livadhia ever more towards  tourism, Tilos remains low-key. This is still a place where visitors come to get away from it all, often for extended stays.

Livadhia

At its core, the port-cum-resort of Livadhia, at the head of a splendid bay on the island's north shore, is still recognizable as a traditional harbourfront village. A row of little taverns. hotels and studios stretches away to the east, however, taking advantage of a narrow strip of beach that offers pleasant family swimming. The entire seafront is now lined by a broad pedestrian promenade, which is great for visitors even if it does diminish the "authentic" feel of the place. The bypass road that was supposed to take all vehicles around the back of the village hasn't quite materialized, however, so even the shortest journey by road can require labyrinthine detours.

Leivadia

Beaches near Livadhia

The pebble bay of Lethra, the tiny red-sand beach of Ammohosti, the secluded south-shore cove of Stavros, cove of Tholos and the bay of Ayios Seryis.

Megalo Horio

Castle

Tilo's capital, the village of Megalo Horio, lies 7km west of Livadhia along the main road. The only significant settlement on the island, it enjoys sweeping views over the vast agricultural plain that stretches down to Eristos, and is overlooked in turn by a prominent Knights' Castle. Reaching the castle requires a stiff thirty-minute climb, which threads its way through a vast jumble of cisterns, house foundations and derelict chapels.

A little museum in the town halls(summer only, daily 8:30 am-2:30 pm, free) displays the bones of midget elephants, found in the Harkadhio cave not far east n 1971. Such remains have been found on a number of Mediterranean islands, but Tilos's group may have been the last to survive, until as recently as 4000BC.

Long pink-grey-sand Eristos beach, 3km south of Megalo Horio, ranks among the island's finest, through swimmers have to cross a reef to reach open sea. The far south end, where the reef recedes, is nudist, as are the two secluded all-naturist coves at Kokkino beyond the headland.

Transportation

Lethra

By ferry: The port of Livadhia is connected with the following islands: Astypalea(1 weekly, 7hr), Halki(2 weekly, 45min), Kalymnos(1 weekly, 5hr), Kastellorizo(2 weekly, 6hr-10hr), Kos(2 weekly, 2-3hr), Naxos(1 weekly, 12hr), Nissyros(3 weekly, 50min), Paros(1 weekly, 12hr), Pireas(2 weekly, 15hr), Rhodes(7 weekly, 2hr), Symi(3 weekly, 2hr)

Getting Around

By bus: A blue-and-white bus, charging 1.20 euro, links Livadhia and Megalo Horio, to coincide with ferry arrivals. It also makes up to five runs daily between Livadhia and the beaches at Ayios Andonios and Eristos.

By taxi: The island has one taxi(22460 44059)

Useful Phone Numbers

Municipality of Tilos: 22460 44212

Police Station: 22460 44222

Port Authorities: 22460 44350

Medical Center: 22460 44210 - 22460 44219

Post Office: 22460 44249

Photos by:

www.sunvil.co.uk

www.yourgreekisland.com

yperion.wordpress.com