Nissyros

Map of Nissyros

The volcanic island of Nissyros is unlike its neighbours in almost every respect. Its much greener than dry Tilos and Halki to the south, blessed with rich soil that nurtures a distinctive flora, and it supported a large agricultural population in ancient times. In contrast to long flat Kos to the north, Nissyros is round and tall, with the high walls of its central caldera rising abruptly from the shoreline around its entire perimeter. And Nissyros conceals a startling secret. Behind those encircling hills, the interior of the island is hollow. For most visitors, the volcano is Nissyros' main attraction. It's easy enough to see it on a day trip from Kos.

The port and sole large town, Mandhraki on the northwest coast, is an appealing tight-knit community with some fine ancient ruins, while two delightful villages, Emborio and Nikia, straddle the crater ridge.

Much of the island's income is derived from the offshore islet of Yiali, a vast lump of pumice, all too clearly visible just north of Mandhraki, that's slowly being quarried away. Substantial concession fees have given the islander's economic security.

Nissyros also offers good walking, on trails that lead through a countryside studded with oak and terebinth.

Mandhraki

The ancient harbor of Mandhraki, tha capital of Nissyros, silted up centuries ago, creating a fertile patch that now serves an orchard community (kampos), surrounded in turn by the modern town. Nonetheless this remains this island's sole ferry  port - boats pull in at a concrete jetty to the east, out of sight of the centre. Mandhraki's a nice little place, stretching along the seashore slightly further than appears at first glance. Behind the pedestrianized waterfront promenade, to some extend overwhelmed by taverns and souvenir stores aimed at day-trippers, the tangled narrow lanes are lined with whitewashed houses, whose brightly painted balconies and shutters are mandated by law. The ensemble is punctuated by appealing little squares, and offers repeated glimpses of fruit trees to one side, and blue sea to the other.

At its western end, Mandhraki comes to an abrupt halt at a low bluff that's topped by the stout walls of a Knight's castle. Though records have been lost, the Knights Hospitaller occupied Nissyros from 1314 until 1522, and it's thought to have reached its heyday around 1400. You can't access any more of the castle itself that the corner staircase and gateway that leads to the little monastery of Panayia Spiliani, generally open daylight hours.

Langadhaki, the distinct immediately below the castle, was badly hit by earthquakes in the 1990s, but little damage is now visible. At sea level, an attractive mosaic footpath leads further west around the headland to reach the short, black-rock beach of Hokhlaki, which is seldom suitable for swimming.

Paleokastro

From the Langadhaki district, beneath the cliffs as the west end of the Mandhraki waterfront, a well-signposted twenty-minute walk climbs up to the hugely impressive Paleokastro, a mighty ancient fortress that's one of the most underrated ancient sites in Greece.

Paleokastro

The coast

Nissyros is almost entirely devoid of beaches, and only a small proportion of its coast is even accessible to visitors. While the coast road east from Mandhraki peters out after barely 10km, it does make a pretty drive - and you'll have to come this way anyway if you're heading for the volcano. The largest structures en route are a couple of huge abandoned spas, dating back to the Italian era.

Four kilometers along, Palli is a fishing village turned low-key resort that can be a welcome retreat when Mandhraki fills with trippers. All summer, the little harbour here is busy enough with pleasure boats to support several taverns. Palli also has an excellent bakery, cranking out tasty brown bread and pies. A reasonable tamarisk-shaded beach of reddish-grey sand, kept well groomed, extends east to the derelict Pantelidhi spa, behind which the little grotto-chapel of Panayia Thermiani is tucked inside the vaulted remains of a Roman baths complex.

Keep going beyond Palli, along an initially bleak stretch of shore, to the pleasant cove of Lies, home to the summer-only Oasis snack bar. The paved road ends at a car park a little further on, a spot that can also be reached in summer by taxi boats from Mandhraki. There's a grey-sand beach right here, while another 15 minutes by trail over the headland brings you to the idyllic, 300m expanse of Pahia Ammos, with grey-pink sand heaped in dunes, limited shade at the far end and a large colony of rough campers and naturists in summer.

Useful Phone Numbers

Municipality of Nissyros: 22420 31203

Medical Center: 22420 31217

Police Station: 22420 31201

Port Authorities: 22420 31222

Photos by

nisyros-island.pblogs.gr

www.ellines.com